[by Lakmini Wijemanne]

At an altitude of about 550m above sea level lies the old Senkadagala Rajadhaniya, the present day referred to as Mahanuwara or Kandy. Famed world over for its scenic beauty, Kandy is steeped in deep history running back to many hundreds of years. The Kandy City was initially founded by King Wimaladharmasuriya in the year 1592. Kandy was also the last royal citadel of Sri Lanka until it was captured by the British in 1815.
Nature was more than kind to Kandy. It bestowed Kandy with many beautiful sights. Kandy is a valley surrounded by magnificent hills which while lending beauty, also made it secure for the Sinhala Kings as a strong bastion when attacked by enemies. Any visitor to Kandy would find themselves sharing an unique life experience since the atmosphere and the environment in Kandy is a rich and unique mix of history, beauty and culture. It’s a special city with a charm of its own. Even the city’s inhabitants, their lifestyles, the pace of life, arts and crafts and even the roadways cramped with shops, all lend their unique charm to make Kandy a special city.
The city is full of ancient temple building, handicrafts, souvenir shops, rich cultural practices and rituals and permeating all this, the melodious sounds of the drums of the Maligawa (the temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic) announcing the special pooja offerings. The very air is heavy with the scent of offerings of flowers, incense and lighted lamps at the Maligawa that, immediately upon arriving in the city, all your senses are assailed by these enchantments.
History of the Perahera
One major aspect why Kandy enjoys so much attention locally and internationally is the colourful cultural pageant that walks its streets during the Esela month. The perahera has a long history.
Peraheras (pageants) were held in the country many years ago to commemorate various events. Among these, there were mythical as well as traditional and historical events which were of special significance to the country or to see the help of the deities for victory in war or success in secular undertakings.
The Dalada Maligawa, which houses the sacred Tooth Relic of the Lord Buddha, is the centre of the Asela Perahera. The custodian today, of the sacred Tooth Relic are the High Priests of Malwatte and Asigiriya Chapters and the lay custodian is the Diyawadana Nilame.
According to history, there were four Tooth Relics of the Buddha. One was in the possession of the Sakra (Lord of the six devas/gods) and the second was given to the Gandhara District (present day Afghansitan). The king of Nagas (Cobras) was in possession of the third and the Ascetic Khema who came into possession of the fourth Tooth Relic, had handed it over to King Brahmadatta of Kalingapura (today, it is called Orissa in India).
At the King’s death, Prince Guhasiva attained the throne and when war became imminent from his enemies, he entrusted Prince Dantha with the task of spiriting the Sacred Tooth Relic to Lanka as a measure for its safety. On his journey to Lanka, Prince Dantha was accompanied by a Princess Hemamala who carried the Tooth Relic to safety hidden in the coils of her hair. The relic was handed over to the great king Kirthisri Meghavanna who was ruling Lanka at that time, in Anuradhapura (303-331 A.D.). The Tooth Relic was placed in a casket of precious metal and was lodged in an edifice called the Dharma Chakra built by King Devenampiyatissa in the third Century B.C. The King decreed that the sacred Tooth Relic should be taken round the city of Anuradhapura once a year in the Esela month.
From that time, till todate, the King’s decree is carried out faithfully, honouring the Tooth Relic which believes to bring prosperity to the country and its people. The Tooth Relic had not always been in Kandy. It was in many places – whichever city the present King was – and at last, King Wimaladharmasooriya II (1687-1707 A.D.) brought the relic to Kandy from Labugama and deposited it in the present place, the Dalada Maligawa, built also by him.
In later years, King Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe (1798-1815 A.D.) added the octagon shaped structure to the temple. He also added the lake in the middle of the city, to add to the city’s beauty.
The Process of the Pageant
The “Kap Ceremony” is the first ritual item of the pageant. Following the new moon in July, an Esala tree or, now in present, a jack tree. Which has not borne fruits yet, is chosen as the “Kap”tree. The tree exudes a milky sap when cut, which is considered a sign of prosperity. The ground above the tree is cleaned and scented with the smoke of burning incense and the tree is anointed with a mixture of sandalwood and offering of a lamp of seven wicks, nine betel leaves and nine kinds of flowers. The tree then is cut by the Devale wood cutter who was ceremoniously purified and dressed in clean clothes. The trunk is divided into four (one part for each devales) and each part of the jack tree trunk is then carried in state with drums in attendance.
The “Kap” is (each part of the tree trunk) then planted in each Devale as a vow that the Perahera would be held. Then onwards, for five consecutive nights, processions are conducted within the devale precincts round the planted “Kap” the kapurala (lay official of the devale) walks in these processions carrying a golden weapon said to have belonged to the Deity of the devale.
On the sixth night starts the Kumbal Perahera, and this procession makes its rounds outside the devale walls and is joined also by the Dalada Maligawa Perahera.
The Chiefs of the temple also joins in this Perahera dressed in their traditional Kandyan court dress. Each night, the Perahera grows in splendour and the number of elephants participating making it bigger, longer, grander and more exiting. After five such nights, the Randoli Perahera is held.
Randoli literally means “Queen’s Palaquin”. Up to the year 1775, history informs that the palanquins were carried alongside the elephants, when it was only the four devale peraheras. Once the Dalada Maligawa Perahera joined, the king then had decreed that these palanquins be carried at the end of the Perahera. Incidentally, there had been four different kinds of palanquins in use in the olden days. The king’s palanquin was called “Koonama”, the queen’s was called “Randoli”, the priests’ “Pallakkiya”, the chieftain’s “Dolawa” and the concubine’s “Yakada Dilawa”. According to the status in society the ornamentation of the Palanquin differs.
The final day’s Randoli Perahera is a majestic spectacular sight one would easily not forget. Remembering the days gone by, when the streets had no illumination other than moon light or fire-torches, today also the way for the Perahera to proceed on, is illuminated by numerous Kopra torch bearers which adds a special feeling to the whole pageant.
The main final pageant consists of five peraheras put together.
They are:
• The Dalada Maligawa Perahera
• Natha Dewale Perahera
• Maha Vishnu Dewale Perahera
• Katharagama Dewale Perahera
• Pattini Dewale Perahera.
Among many preparations that takes place on the final day of the Perahera, the most majestic and moving moment is the moment when the golden casket carrying the Tooth Relic is placed on the Maligawa Tusker, an elephant belonging to the Kandy Temple specially trained to carry-out this task. The tusker stands inside the Maligawa. The Diyawadana Nilame walks into the courtyard accompanied by drummers and dancers walking on “pavada” carrying the casket aloft.
He stands on a raised dias and places the golden casket decorated with many strands of gold, pearls and precious gems inside the specially made and decorated Ransivigeya strapped on to the back of the elephant. The sight of this great animal waiting patiently and reverently until all this is done and then with utmost care it coming down the steps of the temple is an amazing and a touching sight to witness. He does it with such care that one feels that the animal realizes the solemnity of the occasion and the reverence attached to it. Maybe he just knows it!!!
The Perahera is heralded finally by the sounds of the whip-crackers, heard in the calm & quiet of the expectant night. Everybody then gets ready to view this most spectacular magnificent sight of all. Behind the whip crackers comes the flag-bearers carrying the standards of the different provinces and the temples. Then comes the Peramunerala on the elephant carrying the mandate from the king giving permission to hold the Perahera. Then comes the drummers creating the most beautiful drum beats on a variety of drums (Davula, Thammattema, Geta Beraya, Udekkiya) and then pantheru and Thalampota players. The Gajanayake Nilame comes then.
He is the head official of the king’s elephant stables. Next is the Kariyakarawanarala who is responsible for all the ceremonies to the Maligawa. Then comes the Maligawa tusker elegantly and magnificently caprisoned carrying the sacred Tooth Relic in its special howdah flanked by two other elephants. A canopy is held over this elephant and white cloth (Pavada) is spread on its path as a mark of respect for it to walk on. At this moment, Buddhist as well as non-Buddhists are expected to stand as mark of respect when perahara Karaduwa on the Maligawa tusker passes in front of them. Two lines of special dancers and a line of drummers playing a special thala, follows the tusker and at the end of this retinue walks the Diyawadana Nilame in all his splendour.
This main temple Perahera is followed by the other 4 devale peraheras, each as magnificent as the others. The Kandy Esela Perahera pageant comes to an end on the next day after the Diyakapana Mangallaya (water-cutting ceremony), the chiefs of each devales fill a goblet with the river water and these are kept in the dewales till the next year. In the evening, once the processions returns to their respective devales, the chiefs were then received by the king (now the leader of the country) to whom they informed that with due ceremony the Perahera had been held.
Thus, another magnificent and enchanting procession comes to an end.